Wild Rabbit Pie

We have a dysfunctional relationship with rabbits. What was once a wildly popular meat is now barely consumed. Crazy really, when the estimated population size is around 40 million. This huge number of wild creatures causes havoc to both our ecosystems and food systems, not to mention the hundreds of thousands of pounds spent each year on fencing to keep rabbits at bay. You see, rabbits breed like rabbits, so with fine weather, warm summers and mild winters, populations explode.

The imbalance of this species not only impacts hobbyist gardeners but large-scale growers too. If a rabbit population is sickly, they are excellent carriers of all manner of disease spreading to other wild creatures, so it is crucially important we maintain suitable numbers of bunnies to keep the colony and our countryside healthy.

In a world demanding more and more protein, which is leading to further intensification of our farming system, I believe the answer may lie right under our noses - or perhaps in the corner of my veg garden munching on a cabbage leaf...

For those fearful of eating rabbit, this my friends, is the best entry way to get to know this remarkable ingredient. I often refer to this recipe as my ‘Not Chicken Pie’. Everyone who eats it loves it and is always amazed to hear it isn’t made with chicken.

Ingredients

1 whole wild rabbit
A drizzle of organic rapeseed oil (or a teaspoon of free range lard)
250g smoked bacon lardons (unsmoked can be used too)
A knob grass fed butter
2  onions, sliced
4 garlic cloves, sliced
1 celery stick, sliced
A handful of bay leaves
450ml cider
500ml chicken stock, warmed
1 tablespoon stoneground plain flour
1 teaspoon English mustard
200ml double cream
A few fresh herbs, such as rosemary or sage
300g rough puff pastry
1 free range or organic egg, whisked

Sea salt flakes
Freshly ground black pepper

Method

Place a heavy bottomed ovenproof pan over a high heat. 
To the pan, add a little rapeseed oil. Once the fat is smoking hot, season the rabbit and carefully place it into the pan. Leave it for around 2-3 minutes before turning. Once the rabbit is beautifully caramelised, remove it from the pan and set it to one side. 
To the pan, add the bacon lardons and allow them to render down until they are crisp and golden. This will take just a few minutes. Once crisp, remove from the pan and set to one side.

Turn down the heat of the hob and, to the same pan, add a little butter. Allow it to foam and then add the onions, garlic, celery and bay leaves, cooking everything down until soft and  translucent. This will take about 6-7 minutes.

Turn the heat back up and then add the cider, letting it bubble up and rapidly boil. Allow this to cook off for a few minutes until the liquid has reduced by half and started to become sticky. Turn the heat down a touch and pour in the warm stock.

Add the rabbit and bacon lardons back to the pan. Turn the heat down so the pan is gently bubbling away and not boiling or simmering. Place the lid on and leave to cook for about 1½ hours, checking from time to time that the liquid doesn't need a top up. 
Once the rabbit is tender, carefully lift it from the pan and leave it to cool enough to handle.

In a small bowl add a knob of butter and a tablespoon of flour and combine together to create a paste or a 'roux'. Dollop the roux into the sauce, a little at a time, and whisk as you go to encourage the sauce to thicken.

Once the rabbit meat has cooled, carefully strip it from the bone and add the shredded meat back to the pan.

Pour in the cream and add any fresh garden herbs. I like to use tarragon, rosemary or sage, but you could use chives or parsley too. Check the seasoning and make any adjustments.

Preheat the oven to 190C (375F), Gas Mark 5.

Roll out the rough puff pastry and place it over the pan. Generously douse the pastry in egg wash and add two air holes so the steam can escape from the pie.

Place the pie into the oven and bake for around 20 minutes, or until your pastry is crispy and golden.

Remove from the oven and serve with seasonal greens and buttered mash.